How to insulate the floor in a private wooden house: methods and materials

Wooden floors more often than others, especially recently, are suitable for the construction of suburban private houses, cottages. Floors are built both on wooden beams and on reinforced concrete floors.

The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of stone or concrete, which makes it warmer to the touch. Nevertheless, insulation of a wooden floor is often required, especially on the ground floors of buildings.

Types of wooden floors

The method of insulation largely depends on the design of the wooden floor. Three types can be distinguished:

Board floors are made by flooring boards on logs - wooden blocks mounted over a certain distance. Such designs are often made in wooden houses. Board floors can immediately form the top finish, and can be the basis for some other decorative material. In the second case, such floors are called black floors.

In order that the boards in the intervals between the lags do not bend from the weight of people or any objects standing on the floor, they are connected to each other when laying. To do this, the boards are grooved, creating a groove on one edge, and a spike on the other. When installing the floor, the boards come together, the spikes enter the grooves, making up a massive wooden shield lying on the logs.

Plywood floors are mainly used as rough floors. Plywood is also laid on lags and fixed. Any coating can be mounted on top of the plywood: linoleum, parquet, laminate.

Parquet floors are a set of dies made of hardwood, which are laid in a special order, forming a decorative ornament. Parquet can be laid both on a rough wooden floor and on a concrete floor.

Depending on the type of floor, the methods of insulation will vary. To choose the right one, you need to consider the purpose of the building - this is a residential building or a summer residence. Much also depends on the supporting structures, methods of insulation in wooden, brick or aerated concrete houses may vary. It is also necessary to take into account the presence or absence of a basement under the floor.

Materials

There are many ways to protect the interior of the house from the cold, but first of all you need to insulate the floor and roof, since it is through these structural elements that the main heat loss occurs. Only when these structures are qualitatively protected from the cold, does it make sense to warm a wooden house from the inside or outside.

It is advisable to warm the floors of the second and subsequent floors if they are arranged on concrete floors.

For insulation use various materials having a low coefficient of thermal conductivity:

• polystyrene or foam,
• polyurethane foam
• mineral or glass wool,
• penofol
• sawdust.

Each of them has its own advantages, and in most cases the choice depends on the availability of a particular material and the personal preferences of the homeowner. The thickness of the heat insulator depends on the climate in which the wooden house stands, on the location relative to the ground level, as well as on the manufacturer's recommendations.

Purpose of floor insulation

In houses with wooden floors on the lower floor, a boundary is created between the cold outside and warm inside air. Despite the fact that wood itself is a good insulation, the effect of low temperatures affects the floor in a negative way.

A cold floor is the surface on which condensation settles. In winter, the wooden flooring becomes wet, the array begins to swell. The surface goes humps, the boards begin to bulge. When it gets warmer, the wood dries and begins to warp. Cracks appear, the strips are turned by a screw. In addition, mold and fungus appear on the underside of the flooring. Over time, the boards begin to rot and require replacement.

The solution to this problem is the installation of a heat insulator. It forms a cut-off layer separating the heated and cold rooms. Eliminates the risk of damage to the floor. In addition, thermal energy losses are reduced, fuel consumption for heating a house is reduced. It should be noted that the insulation layer can be installed both under the deck and on top of it.

The choice of a suitable option is due to several factors:

• floor construction
• basement availability
• type of insulation.

Before warming a wooden floor in a private house, it is necessary to find out all the working moments and choose the best type of thermal insulation.

Expanded clay

Bulk material, representing granules of a rounded shape. It is made of fired clay. It has a porous structure, but the surface of each pellet is covered with a sealed melt film. The main advantage of expanded clay is its durability. The backfill layer can be used several times on different objects, and the material will not lose its qualities. In addition, the advantages of insulation are:

• light weight. Due to the porous structure, the mass of the granules is small. This eliminates unnecessary load on the supporting structures even when creating a thick layer of insulation,
• low thermal conductivity
• resistance to temperature changes,
• expanded clay does not burn,
• strength, resistance to mechanical stress,
• installation is easy and easy to do.

For installation, it is only necessary to fill up the mass of material and level the surface, giving the layer the same thickness. However, to obtain the desired effect, a rather large thickness of the backfill is required - experts recommend laying a layer of insulation of at least 25-30 cm. In addition, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the granules. By themselves, they are airtight and not afraid of moisture, but the water that has penetrated the thickness does not dry out for a long time.

Mineral wool

A popular and sought-after insulation used universally. Minvata is the collective name of a group of materials, which are:

• stone (basalt) cotton wool,
• glass wool
• slag, etc.

Most often, basalt wool is used, which has the most successful set of qualities. Advantages of mineral wool:

• high heat-insulating qualities,
• light weight
• resistance to fire or high temperatures,
• there are roll and plate forms of material that expand the choice,
• durability.

However, there are disadvantages:

• the ability to absorb moisture, after which the insulation significantly changes its qualities,
• support structures are required for installation, which complicates the process of insulation.

During installation, the mineral wool has to be cut off on both sides from possible contact with steam or liquid water. To do this, use a waterproofing film. The waterproofing layer creates an additional operation during installation, but it cannot be excluded from the process. Wet mineral wool ceases to be a heat insulator and begins to destroy all structures with which it is in contact.

Penoplex

The technical name of this insulation is extruded polystyrene foam. It is a frozen mass, similar in texture to the mounting foam. It has high performance. Advantages of penoplex:

• complete impermeability to moisture in any form,
• low thermal conductivity, the ability to create a thermal cut-off even with a small layer thickness,
• light weight
• does not support combustion
• durability.

A distinctive feature of penoplex is rigidity. Installation can be performed with additional supporting elements or with a continuous sheet. The only drawback is considered to be a relatively high price, although today the cost of penoplex is much lower than several years ago.

Sawdust

Sawmill waste can be purchased literally for a penny. Often they are given in vain, if only the excess was taken out. Cheapness attracts some owners of wooden houses who are trying to insulate the floor in this way. However, this option has significant disadvantages:

• instability to moisture,
• the ability to rot, rot, the possibility of mold or mildew,
• insects or rodents can be found in sawdust,
• material cakes and loses its qualities.

To compensate for these shortcomings, sawdust is mixed with lime, clay or cement mortar. Laying is simple - a thick layer is filled on a wooden floor and the surface is leveled. Sometimes plates made of cement mortar and a large number of sawdust are made. Briquettes are laid tightly, without cracks and gaps, forming a continuous canvas. The overall effect of the use of sawdust is low, so in today's practice this option is quite rare.

Styrofoam

This is another type of polystyrene foam. Unlike foam, this insulator consists of individual granules. They are sintered in special autoclaves under the influence of superheated steam. Styrofoam Properties:

• light weight. In this regard, the material leads among all alternatives,
• high heat-insulating abilities,
• ease of installation. Insulation is available in plates of different thicknesses. You can choose the right size, or use a pack of several layers,
• resistance to water. The granules are tight, but there is a slight absorption of moisture into the microscopic cavities between them,
• low price. This is a decisive factor due to which the foam is attractive in the eyes of users.

One of the features of the heat insulator should be considered a complex attitude to combustion. Manufacturers claim that the foam does not burn and does not support combustion. As a proof, a video is often shown in which a piece of insulation is unsuccessfully tried to set fire to a lighter. However, in reality the situation is more complicated. The granules are filled with carbon dioxide that does not support combustion. But, when the polystyrene is completely melted, the gas will come out, and the pool of liquid material will burn well. This point should be considered when choosing a heater.

Penofol

This is a roll material obtained from foamed polyethylene. An additional element is aluminum foil forming a reflective layer. It directs infrared (thermal) rays back into the room, which enhances the effect of using an insulator. There are several varieties of penofol, with a reflective layer on one or two sides, there are types with a sticky layer, to facilitate installation. The thickness of such insulation is small, and it can be laid on the floor on top of the flooring from the boards, without dismantling the old floor.

The layer of material is impervious to moisture and does not allow air to pass through. This has both positive and negative sides. When using such heaters, it is necessary to organize high-quality ventilation of the rooms, otherwise water vapor will begin to settle on the walls and other wooden planes.

Ecowool

Loose material that is sprayed using special equipment. Its feature is that the thickness of the spraying layer on the wooden floor can be any and depends only on the wishes of the owner. This insulation is a cellulose flakes obtained from the recycling of waste paper and paper recyclables. At the same time, the composition does not contribute to the appearance of rodents. In the manufacture of it, additives of boric acid and borax are added, which frighten off the rats and prevent the ignition of the backfill layer. The main advantage of this insulation is considered to be high heat-saving qualities. However, the material has a number of serious drawbacks:

• the ability to absorb moisture, which reduces the performance of the backfill layer,
• the need for special equipment for styling.

In addition, ecowool is quite expensive material, which reduces its attractiveness among users.

Foamed polymers

A group of materials, among which the types of foamed polyethylene predominate. They have a small thickness, which allows them to be used without opening the subfloor and without dismantling the flooring. Available in different types and forms:

• rolls
• mats
• harnesses
• shells (shells) for pipelines.

The scope of foamed polymer insulators is wide. They insulate and wooden floor, and walls, and other surfaces. With high heat-saving qualities of the material, the layer thickness is small, which compares favorably with foamed polymer heat insulators from alternative types. They are convenient for laying under the connection of plates, they can insulate roof slopes, floor or ceiling, other planes. At the same time, they have not yet received wide distribution among users, since they appeared on sale relatively recently. When deciding how to properly insulate the floor in a wooden house, you can consider this group of heaters. Their prospects are quite large, and their capabilities and properties make it possible to obtain a useful effect in any areas.

Foam glass

Foamed glass insulation was first created in the first half of the last century. However, in our country it has not received wide distribution. The main reason for this was the high cost - in the manufacturing process it is necessary to use the heating of the glass mass to a melting point (1000 °), which increases costs. Insulation has a good set of qualities:

• high strength
• complete fire safety,
• environmental Safety,
• simple and convenient installation.

The disadvantages are the large weight and high cost of the insulation. Foam glass is lighter than wood, but in comparison with other types of insulation it is noticeably heavier. If it is necessary to install large quantities of material on the floor, an additional load arises on the supporting structures, which are not always ready for this.

Fiberboard

A material representing a sandwich of two layers of thin OSB, between which there is a pressed insulation. This is a composite made up of three main components:

• wood wool (thin fibers),
• cement powder
• glue (water glass).

Available in the form of plates, which facilitates the installation of the material on the old flooring (top). A feature of fibrolite is its high ability to absorb moisture. Moreover, if the installation is carried out in several layers, the weight of the insulation increases markedly. This reduces its operational value. For installation on the floor of the lower floor, this insulation is suitable with restrictions. It is not suitable for floors on the ground, but can be used on floors of upper floors.

Isolon

This is another type of foamed polyethylene equipped with a foil reflector. By its qualities, this insulation is almost a complete analogue of penofol. Many users confuse these materials with each other. There are slight differences in brands of polyethylene, layer thickness, roll length and other technological aspects. The scope and installation method are no different.

The specifics of the use of materials is also the same - areas requiring a complete cut-off from moisture in all forms.

Liquid heat insulator

Liquid thermal insulation is a material that is applied in bulk or by spray. In the air, they freeze or (more often) foam, forming a continuous hermetic web. The disadvantage of such materials is the need to use special equipment. However, there is an important advantage - liquid materials can be applied on any surface, with a large number of small parts, potholes or other flaws. In any case, the coating canvas will be smooth and airtight.In addition, the layer thickness is relatively small and does not create an unnecessary load on the supporting structures.

Liquid types of insulation include:

• polyurethane foam
• penoizol
• warming paint
• liquid rubber.

The use of such materials is limited due to installation difficulties and high cost.

In the plates

Plate types of insulation are convenient because during installation they are able to maintain their shape and do not need to install supporting structures. These include the following materials:

• Styrofoam,
• foam,
• stone (basalt) mineral wool,
• arbolite
• foam glass.

The disadvantage of plate forms is the need for thorough preparation of the base. In a house without basement heating, the condition of the planes is rarely ideal. Alignment of the plane, elimination of potholes, dents and other flaws is required. Installation of insulation on uneven surfaces will not bring the expected effect. Moreover, water will gradually accumulate in the dent cavities, which will lead to a gradual exfoliation of the insulation. Before installation, you have to do thorough preparation, apply a leveling layer of plaster or sheathing on the rough floor.

In rolls

Roll types of insulation are the most extensive group. These include:

The advantage of roll materials is the ability to install on convex or concave bases. They can be mounted on cylindrical walls, pasted over spherical surfaces, shapes of complex shape. The disadvantage is the lack of self-supporting ability. Before you insulate the floor in a private house with roll materials, you will need to assemble additional supporting structures, use adhesive structures or other auxiliary materials.

Bulk insulation

Bulk materials are used only on horizontal planes - for insulation of the floor, attic, ceilings, ceiling plates. This group includes:

• expanded clay,
• sawdust,
• polystyrene granules,
• perlite.

The use of such heaters is limited due to the peculiarities of their structure. The best use case is floor insulation in a wooden house. The main advantage is the ability to extract and reuse the material. The disadvantages include the need to create a rather thick backfill layer - the desired effect appears with a layer thickness of 25 cm. Because of this, they often use the insulation of floors in a private house with a cold underfloor.

The main stages of work

Warming of a wooden floor in a private house is carried out in stages. You must complete the following steps:

• to inspect the condition of the rough floor and load-bearing structures (lag),
• choose a method of insulation, decide which insulation is better to use,
• to acquire the necessary materials and devices,
• to carry out preparatory work,
• install waterproofing, insulation and related materials on the rough floor,
• lay on the floor a sheathing layer and a fine floor covering.

The main task is the correct choice of installation method and insulation. If the house uses the old floor, you need to decide whether it is possible to continue its operation, or if a complete replacement of the floor is needed. In addition, it is necessary to determine the direction of installation - bottom or top. All subsequent actions depend on which decisions are made.

Features of insulation

Before you insulate the floor of a wooden house, you need to find out the specifics of the location of the floor. The technology of the work depends on the type of foundation, the construction of the basement level and the presence of the basement. It is most convenient to install a heat insulator from the inside of the room, i.e. from above. However, this method is not suitable for all floors. If you act without opening the old flooring, the floor level will rise markedly. Doors will stop opening, you will need to reinstall all the blocks.

Before you insulate the floor in a wooden house without dismantling the floor, you should go around the entire floor and make a diagram showing the openings, stairs and other elements adjacent to the ceiling. If there are too many, it’s easier to find another installation option.

Consider how to insulate the floors in a wooden house with different types of subfloors. For each method, a brief step-by-step instruction will be given:

Over the cellar

For floor insulation in a house with an unheated basement, two options are suitable:

• installation of a layer of insulation from below, on the ceiling of the cellar,
• laying material on the floor from above.

The choice of the necessary option is made based on the convenience of work. The effectiveness of the result in both cases is approximately the same and depends on the properties of the selected material. Procedure for installation from below:

• preparation of the surface of the ceiling. Cleaning, removal of foreign objects - lamps, hooks, brackets,
• 1.5-2 cm thick rails are stuffed onto the ceiling. A continuous sheet of waterproofing film is installed on top. The strips are lapped with 10-15 cm and glued with special tape. The canvas is attached to the rails using a stapler,
• installation of the crate. This is a system of strips, the thickness of which is slightly larger than the size of the insulation. The distance between the slats (step of the crate) should be equal to the width of the plates or rolls,
• insulation is installed between the slats. It is recommended to use plate material with rigidity and comfortable to work from the bottom. Installation is carried out as tightly as possible, without gaps or crevices. If they appear, they are immediately filled with polyurethane foam,
• installation of a second layer of waterproofing. It is attached in the same way to the battens,
• covering the ceiling plate with sheet materials - plywood, OSB, particleboard or the like.

It is necessary to ensure complete insulation of the insulation with two layers of film. If air comes from outside, the insulation will get wet a little and stop working.

Low underground

If the house has a low floor, you will have to think about how to insulate the floor in a wooden house without dismantling the floor. This method is best implemented using thin and moisture-proof materials - isolon or penofol. In order to walk on the floor without violating the integrity of the insulation, installation of a hard floor covering such as a laminate is required from above.

Before you insulate wooden floors in a private house on top of boards, you need to prepare the surface. Procedure:

• removal of flooring and all foreign elements. Sealing gaps and gaps (if any),
• installation of the support system. These are wooden planks, arranged so that the insulation fits tightly between them. Their thickness should be slightly larger than that of insulation,
• laying of roll insulation
• the entire floor area is covered with sheet materials (plywood, OSB, etc.),
• laying a layer of substrate and laminate

It is noteworthy that the height of the additional layer is not too large. As a result of the operations performed, the floor level will rise by about 5 cm. Door leafs can not be changed with this change, but only trimmed from the bottom by the desired amount.

Thermoplastics

Polyfoam and penoplex are very similar materials. They are produced by foaming plastics, sometimes introducing additional additives that prevent decomposition and make them unattractive to rodents. Both of these materials have a very low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Note! For comparison: in terms of heat efficiency, a foam plastic 5 cm thick is equivalent to 75 cm thick brickwork.

It is convenient to use such materials, since they are produced in the form of sheets of various thicknesses. Transporting them to the construction site is not a hassle. They are very light and durable. You can cut polystyrene or polystyrene with a regular stationery knife. When warming the surface with them, you can seal the resulting cracks at the joints with ordinary mounting foam. Adhesion with insulation is very good.

Polyurethane foam is called a material that is more familiar in everyday life as foam rubber mats. In construction, such mats are not used, and polyurethane foam is applied to the surface by spraying. Later, in the process of hardening and polymerization, it foams, solidifying. As a result, polyurethane foam forms a durable, waterproof, sealed warm coat for building structures.

On the concrete underground

Installing thermal insulation on a concrete base is easier than on an old wooden floor. Two methods are used:

• laying foam and filling the screed layer,
• laying on the floor of the lathing (lag) and installation of thermal insulation followed by sheathing with sheet materials.

In a wooden house without underfloor heating, it is impractical to use the first option. The thickness of the insulation layer and screeds will significantly increase the level of overlap, and the weight of concrete will create an additional load on the foundation. Given the mass of concrete underground, there is a risk of overloading the supporting structures.

The second way to insulate the floor in a wooden house with your own hands is preferable. The usual method of laying a layer of insulation on the floor with an additional assembly of the crate is used. It is noteworthy that you can use roll, plate or bulk types of material. The choice will be affected by the permissible height of the floor level, and the owner's own preferences. It is recommended to use sheet or plate materials that demonstrate high efficiency with a relatively small thickness of the insulation layer.

Double gender

This type of construction is a ceiling based on thick logs with wooden flooring hemmed from above and below. An insulation layer of any type of insulation is installed between them. Edged boards 50 mm thick and 150-200 mm wide are usually used as logs. They are mounted on the rib and attached to the perimeter harness. If the length is too long, install two boards at once. It is important that the material is dry and aged. When dried, the wood changes linear dimensions, especially in the transverse direction. In addition, a wet tree is quickly becoming the habitat of insects or unwanted microflora.

It is necessary to decide which insulation is suitable for filling the gap between the plank layers. It should be borne in mind that the weight of the material will be large enough to create a danger of overloading the foundation or supporting structures. Insulation for the floor in a wooden house should be quite light. Loose types (granules of expanded polystyrene, expanded clay), polystyrene, rolled mineral wool are suitable. During installation, the insulation layer must be packed in a waterproof film, laid on both sides. It is not possible to install the insulation without opening the floor, so you must immediately stock up with tools and take time to dismantle. It is recommended to divide the entire area into plots. First, one is completely insulated, then the second - and so on. This will facilitate the work and reduce the number of stacked boards from the flooring.

On the ground

This option is used in a wooden house on the lower floor. The absence of a basement or basement simplifies the technique, but adds labor. Insulation of the floor in a private house on the ground is considered one of the most effective ways. However, this option will require considerable effort.

The process is an alternate stacking of several layers:

• sand cushion (use either clean river sand or ASG). The backfill layer performs leveling and drainage functions. You cannot use clay, it is impervious to water and will contribute to the appearance of puddles under the house constantly. There will be a bad smell, mold, the wood will begin to rot and decay,
• geotextile layer. This material cuts off the bedding from the upper layers of the insulation cake,
• waterproofing. An airtight layer of film is laid, the strips of which are connected by a special adhesive tape,
• heat insulator (the best option is several layers of foam, laid separately)
• another layer of waterproof film,
• concrete screed reinforced with reinforcing mesh.

Installation of wooden flooring is impractical, since the condition of the wood will be constantly under the threat of decay or mold.

In the lags

Installation of heat insulators in a wooden house on logs is similar to double-floor technology. The only difference is the design of the bottom layer - this is not necessarily flooring from boards. Any plane can be used. Installation of insulation occurs by tightly stacking sheets between the logs. The layer thickness should not exceed the height of the bars so that a small gap remains (optimally - about 1 cm).

If moisture-proof materials are used, laying of two layers of waterproofing is absolutely necessary. The procedure is carried out with a film on the walls up to 20 cm in order to subsequently connect the lower and upper layers of waterproofing. They stick together with tape and form an airtight cocoon. In it, the insulation does not risk anything and remains operational for a long time.

Possible mistakes

Often, floor insulation in a private house with your own hands does not give the expected effect. The reason for this is the mistakes made by the owner during the preparation or laying of the cutoff. Among them stand out:

• lack of understanding of the meaning of the whole procedure. Most users are confident that the insulation of the floor is done in order to increase the air temperature. People don’t know that the main task is to prevent condensation
• installation of hygroscopic materials without waterproofing cocoon. In a fairly short time, instead of warming, they get mold, fungus and foul odors from under the floor,
• warming of a wooden floor in a private house must be combined with the organization of high-quality air exchange. Otherwise, water vapor in excess in the atmosphere of residential premises will be absorbed into other surfaces,
• it is important to choose the right way to insulate the floor, take into account the design features of the basement or basement, and other factors. Errors at the preparation stage are extremely difficult to fix subsequently.

It is not difficult to warm the wooden floor in a private house with your own hands. The main thing is to understand the physical meaning of this event and comply with the rules for the use of the selected heat insulator. Then the result will be a long service life of the floor and a decrease in the cost of heating the home.

Board and plywood floors on logs

An ideal option is one in which floor insulation is carried out at the stage of building construction. In this case, you can foresee all the nuances and avoid mistakes, unnecessary time and material expenses. The maximum effect of insulation will be obtained only if the level of the wooden floor of the first floor is located at a distance of at least 25-30 cm from the ground level planned around the building.

The floors in wooden houses are arranged on beams, which are laid on the same level with the first crown of the log house. Logs are laid on top of the beams, and already on them - a plank or plywood coating. When insulating a wooden floor during construction, it is possible to place heat-insulating material between the beams. To do this, skull bars are nailed down along their entire length from below, on which board or plywood flooring rests. Between two adjacent beams there is a space that can be filled with insulation.

Note! Before laying the insulation, you need to lay a layer of vapor barrier.

In this case, it must be oriented so that water vapor from the insulation goes into the underground. They are removed from the underground space through special ventilation openings, which should be provided in the foundation. In winter, these vents are usually closed to prevent cold air from entering the space under the floor.

Additional vapor barrier

After laying the insulation, it is necessary to mount another layer of vapor barrier, the vapor permeability coefficient of which will be several times lower than that of the lower layer. For this, you can use the most ordinary plastic film or any rolled foil materials. In this case, the foil must be placed in the direction of the internal volume of the room, then it will have a reflective effect for heat. Logs are laid on the upper layer of the vapor barrier, and boards or plywood are mounted.

The thickness of the lag will ensure the presence of a mandatory air gap between the upper vapor barrier and the floor covering. Ventilation in this gap can be ensured by drilling several holes in the floor at the corners of the room or using special slotted skirting boards.

In the case of an old building

If you have to make insulation in already constructed buildings, the method described above is not suitable, since it is irrational to open existing wooden floors. In this case, if floor height allows, the old floor can be used as a rough floor. On it you need to lay logs with insulation and on top of them - a new plank coating. As well as in accordance with the above method, a vapor barrier layer must be laid under the insulation and a denser membrane must also be mounted on top of the insulation.

According to the same scheme as floor insulation, you can do your own insulation of the ceiling or ceiling in a wooden house. The difference will be that a vapor barrier layer with a high penetration coefficient must be mounted on top so that moisture from the insulation is not removed inside the room, but in a ventilated attic or outside.

Parquet and parquet board

Parquet floors can be either a combination of separate dies, or flooring from a parquet board. In both cases, the parquet is laid on an even prepared base. It can be a cement-sand screed or sheet wood material. So that the parquet floor is not cold, it can be insulated in several ways.

A significant warming effect is provided by the use of a foam polyethylene substrate placed under a parquet board. This substrate is similar in structure to the insulation material penofol. The only difference is that it does not have a foil layer.

Note! If the typeset parquet is laid on the base of plywood or particle boards, the insulating layer of penofol can be placed under the wood base directly on the surface of the concrete slab.

When parquet dies stick directly to the cement-sand screed, you need to insulate it.

Use penofol or penoplex. For this, the insulation layer is glued to the reinforced concrete slab, and then the screed is poured. Previously, around the perimeter of the room, a foam foam tape is necessarily glued on the screed thickness, or foam foam plates are laid.

They need to be located along all walls and partitions, including along interior rooms, since they perform two functions - they isolate the screed from the cold exterior walls of the building and are dampers that compensate for the change in the size of the screed due to heating.

Instead of heating the cable with a sensor from the floor heating system in the screed, you can get an additional type of heating. Usually they call it that - warm floor. The cable must be mounted using special fasteners before concreting. The wires supplying the cable and the sensor connecting wires must be brought to the installation site of the thermocontroller - the control panel of the heating system in advance. Periodic inclusion of heating will provide a comfortable temperature throughout the room.

Features: Pros and Cons

The main purpose of the insulation is to create comfort and coziness in the room, preserving heat even in severe frost. Accordingly, the use of insulation guarantees significant savings in cash on electricity. In addition, floor insulation contributes to the creation of a sound-absorbing layer, thanks to which extraneous sounds will not penetrate the room. When insulating the floor, you can reduce heat loss in the room by 20%. This not only saves money on heating, but also allows you to evaluate all the advantages of flooring.

For example, without a quality substrate, a parquet board can dry out, become unusable, begin to creak, and in the future, it will be necessary to dismantle the floor and lay new construction material.

Insulated floors are protected at joints and corners from low temperatures, so condensation does not form on the walls. Wallpaper will not get wet, molds will not appear under them, and the paint will not crack or drop off. In a private house due to the insulation of the attic and ground floor average temperature can be stabilized, make them the same in both winter and summer.

Properly laid insulation can protect against insects and rodents. This is especially important for flooring in your own home, because mice are often populated under floorboards. Gnawing the skirting boards, they get out. Rats and mice can gnaw through electrical wiring, which ultimately leads to blackout, forced repair, or even a fire.

Minus floor insulation is considered high price. Many people do not understand why to insulate a cottage if there is a boiler. Experts say that insulation is done once, that is, it is a one-time expense, and you have to spend money on heating all the time. Unfortunately, over the years, fuel only rises in price, therefore, from the point of view of economy, insulation is necessary.

What is better to insulate?

Extruded polystyrene foam is excellent for creating a warm floor. Firstly, it is a cheap building material, and secondly, it has good thermal insulation qualities. In addition, he is not afraid of water, which allows them to insulate not only the inside of the room, but also the space outside, including the foundation. Of the minuses, it can be noted that polystyrene foam is a synthetic material, and under the influence of high temperatures it releases styrene - a substance that can adversely affect the health of not only young children, but also adults.

It is unacceptable to set fire to building material, since in the event of a fire, the foam emits phosgene, the inhalation of the vapor of which can be fatal. Polyfoam is not recommended to insulate wooden structures due to its vapor-tight properties.

A type of polystyrene foam is foam. Penoplex sheathed floors of country houses and city apartments. Unlike polystyrene, this building material has high strength properties: moisture penetrates only into the outer layer, so that no deformation occurs. Even the “liquid” penoplex is able not to let in cold air from the street, therefore it is used to warm the floor in the attic.

Penoplex for damp rooms is recommended, and even a girl can lift it because of its light weight. It is cut with an ordinary clerical knife. The manufacturer guarantees a 50-year service life. In addition, penoplex is neutral with respect to chemicals - alkali, chlorine, paint, concrete mixtures.

Among non-combustible, environmentally friendly materials, mineral wool can be noted. Mineral wool is insulated not only with concrete floors, but also with wooden structures, since it has high vapor permeability. Mineral wool is “afraid” of moisture, so it is not recommended to use it in rooms with high humidity. In addition, it slides during the operational period, which negatively affects the conservation of heat. The manufacturer occupies a special place in the building materials market TechnoNIKOL, producing several varieties of mineral wool:

Sawdust is another natural material. Private houses have been warming sawdust with lime for several decades. It is environmentally friendly material.Some people can even get for free. Unfortunately, you will have to tinker with sawdust: first, dry, treat with lime and antifungal drugs, and later add gypsum, which will give airiness.

Expanded clay is used when bulk insulation is needed. This is a kind of burnt clay, which is also foamed at the production stage. It is sold at a low price, but since this building material cannot interact with moisture, most often it acts as a filler.

Polyurethane is used in those cases when they want to replace poorly breathable polystyrene or non-moisture resistant mineral water. Since polyurethane foam is an analogue of rubber, it is also suitable as a heat-insulating layer. Of the minuses, it is noted that it has a high cost, and for its application not only special skills are needed, but also experience. Under the influence of high temperatures or directly during a fire, polyurethane releases harmful chemicals that are dangerous not only for health but also for human life.

Keep in mind that doronite is a geotextile film for insulation, it is not used separately as a heat insulator. It is used in conjunction with other building materials: waterproofing membrane, drainage material and sand-cement mixture.

Folgoizol or penofol can be used as insulation for concrete under the screed. Make it from the made foam polyethylene and "wrap" a foil layer. Neither polyethylene nor aluminum foil are thick building materials, therefore they do not use penofol as a basis - only together with other materials.

A novelty in the construction store is foam glass, which is produced from foamed glass. Thanks to this, foamglass is an environmentally friendly material, fireproof and waterproof. It is produced in the form of granules. For industrial premises, foam glass is used in the form of plates and blocks.

Reviews

When analyzing customer reviews, no consensus was found, because some people use a heat-insulating layer in an apartment, while others use a country house. It is important to consider the thermal conductivity of the material: the lower it is, the better. Low thermal conductivity ensures that less material is needed so that the heat does not leave the room. This will provide significant cost savings. Buyers also pay attention to such quality as hydrophobicity - interaction with moisture.

It is especially important to take this into account when working in rooms with high humidity: in bathrooms, in kitchens and balconies. If the heater rolls upon contact with water, then its thermal conductivity increases, and heat, accordingly, is not retained.

For safety reasons, building material should not emit harmful chemicals during combustion or burn out in a few minutes. The less the heat-insulating material weighs, the less the load on a concrete or wooden base. Heavy insulation is most often used outside, and lightweight inside. Equally important are the ease of installation and the final cost of the product. Summarizing, we can come to the following conclusions:

• Any insulation is suitable for the floor.
• Mineral wool, like expanded clay, settles over time, and thermal conductivity changes.
• When insulating the floor, it is necessary that the heat-insulating layer possess high hydrophobicity, since moisture will periodically evaporate from the basement or from the concrete base.
• Expanded clay is considered the best bulk option.
• Near fireplaces and stoves, only fire-resistant heat-insulating materials are used: basalt fiber, mineral wool, glass wool, perlite, vermiculite or fiberglass.
• The use of synthetic building materials is fraught not only with damage to property, but also with harm to the health and life of households.

Preparatory work

Before laying the insulation on the floor, it is necessary to complete all previous work: apply plaster or fix logs, treat with an antiseptic or paint the slats. In different rooms, as well as depending on the basis of these stages will be different. The base is cleaned, in most works a spatula is used. If desired, the floor is processed solution against fat stains.

If the room has high humidity, then it is necessary to dry the base. If after this a white coating appears, it must be removed. Additionally, the surface is treated with a primer.

Do not neglect antifungal treatment. The fungus most often appears in humid, unventilated rooms, mold can also appear on wooden beams. As a fungicide, you can use not only special equipment, but also resort to people's councils. Folk remedies are suitable for those families in which there are small children or allergy sufferers, since more “gentle” chemistry is used. Most often, ammonia, citric acid, soda, acetic essence, salt or soap solution are used.

By the way, not only floors, but also carpets are disinfected with laundry soap.

It will be necessary to fill up all the cracks with elastic putty or construction foam, walk with sealant. All excess should be cleaned after drying with a clerical knife. This will prevent damage to the insulating material.

It is important to calculate in advance how much building material you need to install thermal insulation. In some rooms, due to the design features (niches, protrusions), certain places may not be insulated. In special cases, experts recommend strengthening the base.

Keep in mind that dust, wood chips and other debris must be removed from the floor after preparatory work. If this is not done, then when laying the insulation, dust particles or sawdust will remain under it. This will negatively affect the thermal insulation qualities of the building material, therefore it is important to carry out not only vacuum cleaning, but also wet cleaning. Remember that the following steps are carried out only after the base has dried.

Technology

Proper insulation of the floor is the key to coziness and comfort. If this technology is not produced in compliance with the rules, then the room heat will not be retained for a long time. In addition, I would like to note the fact that the floor structure resembles a pie, in which the substrate also has other qualities - noise insulation and waterproofing.

Next, we will consider the layout of the insulation in a private house, but if desired, these methods can also be used in a city apartment. The required layer, fraction, proportions - all this will depend on the material and on the room in which the work is performed. You can insulate the first floor of a private house in logs and without opening. To do this, you need to level the base of the subfloor.

Room

As a rule, it is the bathroom and balcony that are insulated in panel houses. In this case, together with a heat-insulating layer, an electric heating system is also used. Since ceramic tiles or tiles are often laid in the bathroom - cold building materials that need to be heated even in the summer, you can not do without a warm floor.

First, it should be noted that installation of the cable system under the bathroom or under the furniture is useless, which means that before buying a product, it is important to make the right measurements. Insulation is placed on the cleaned surface. Penofol, foil isolol or any other option that has a foil layer is suitable for the bathroom. It is important that the heat-reflecting aluminum foil is located on top.

The location of the thermostat is selected and marked on the wall.A metal mesh or any guides into which the cable will be easily mounted are laid on top of the insulation. Installation is carried out according to the scheme "snake" or "snail".

Remember that the wire cannot be deformed and cut, otherwise the product will fail, even a fire may occur.

According to the instructions, the cable heating system is connected. The product must be powered by a switchboard. The sensor is mounted in a corrugation. Performance is checked, after which cement-sand screed is poured. Further inclusion of the heating system is possible only after the cement has dried, otherwise the floor will crack. Finish coating mounted directly to the cement screed. With the right connection, the warm floor will last more than one decade.

It is easier to install heating mats. When warming a loggia or balcony, experts recommend using infrared warm floors, since there is no need to fill the screed. Previously, the balcony needs to be glazed, and the walls with the ceiling should be insulated - only in this case it will be possible to achieve a tangible effect. Glazing is performed using a five-chamber plastic profile. If you use aluminum structures, the cold will linger inside the loggia. Three-chamber double-glazed window delays frost penetration. The walls and ceiling are often sheathed with polystyrene or mineral wool. Unfortunately, bringing batteries to the balcony does not work, it is prohibited by law.

A substrate is placed on a leveled and disinfected base. When choosing a heat-insulating layer, it is important to build on the recommendations of the manufacturer. The film is laid on top of the insulation. You can cut it only by special hatching. It is strictly forbidden to overlap the film, joints should not be wider than 3.5 cm.

Previously, the cable must be connected to the product, and a thermostat must be installed. The temperature will be set directly through it. When using a laminate or a wooden board as a topcoat, it is important to remember that deformation and damage to the base occur at elevated temperatures. The temperature should not be higher than 28 degrees.

There are no restrictions when installing linoleum or tile, however, when laying tile, do not forget to lay a metal mesh. Thanks to it, high-quality fixing of the tile is achieved. The glue should be special, designed for warm floors.

The accumulation of moisture on an infrared warm floor is not allowed. Before installing it, you need to get rid of the condensation on the balcony. Some people do not dismantle the old base and install the electric heating system, but if the floor has significant differences, then effective heating can not be achieved.

The main advantage of the infrared heating system is its easy installation. Installation according to the instructions can be made by anyone, so you can not call specialists.

Common mistakes

It is very important that you first draw up a plan that reflects all dimensions and structural features, such as protrusions, niches, window units and interior doors. Thanks to this, you can pre-calculate the right amount of material. The main error in the installation of insulating building materials is considered to be the presence of gaps. Their appearance is connected with the wrong selection of the width and thickness of the product. Thanks to the "cold bridges", the heat does not linger, but disappears, so experts strongly recommend that the plates be laid tightly on top of each other, eliminating the appearance of seams.

When laying a heat-insulating layer, in no case should you compress the product, change its thickness, as this negatively affects thermal conductivity. By the way, extruded polyurethane foam and mineral wool during the operation period settle naturally.

Keep in mind that even locally pinch building material should not be. This can happen if the hole depth is incorrectly selected or when using the wrong fasteners. As an alternative, Isover insulation can be recommended, which is mounted without fasteners, and one person can handle the installation procedure, since the material is lightweight.

The dowels should not be sunk into the base - this will damage the thermal insulation layer. At the same time, the fastener head is not allowed to protrude above the surface - this will eventually lead to bloating.

It is important to make the insulation according to the manufacturer's instructions. If the cutting is performed incorrectly, the probability of heat loss increases. Mounting allowances should not exceed 5 mm: so the material will fit snugly to the base. A complete exclusion of allowances is unacceptable, however, if you overdo it with them, the insulation will deform, which will lead to a decrease in the air layer between the base and the product.

Often there are difficulties when mounting on surfaces that are not aligned and not cleaned of debris and dust. If you neglect the antifungal treatment, then you can harm the health of not only households, but also guests.

No way crude building materials are not allowed. Unfortunately, very often during the construction of a house the insulation is purchased in advance and stored for several months in the open. Precipitation (rain, snow) is absorbed into the mineral wool. It is important to dry the insulation before installation, otherwise the wooden bars will rot and the metal profile will rust. On the recommendation of manufacturers, the insulation should be placed with a reflective surface in the direction of the air gap. Often, an inexperienced installer does the opposite, and the insulation does not work properly. It is also important to observe the size of the air gap, which should average 15 mm.

The basement profile is not only a guide for the lower layer of thermal insulation, but also a protection against the penetration of insects and rodents. In addition, he takes on some load, which favorably affects the ceilings of the house. Stacking is carried out only in a checkerboard pattern, only in this way excellent indicators of heat conservation are achieved. Plates should be half offset relative to the adjacent row. If the rows are laid parallel to each other, then the heat loss will double.

Do not forget that floor insulation resembles a “pie”, in which each layer is responsible for a certain indicator. If you want to save money by eliminating or replacing any layer, you can significantly affect the thermal insulation.

It is important to consider the periods between the laying of subsequent layers. It is also required to observe the temperature regime. At low rates (less than 5 degrees), drying processes slow down, and at temperatures above 30 degrees - increase. In unheated rooms in winter, additional awnings need to be made in order to increase performance to acceptable limits. It is undesirable to combine mineral wool with polystyrene foam, since they have different characteristics, and the installation of both has a number of nuances.

By the way, extruded styrofoam is recommended for insulation of basements, and mineral wool is suitable for floors on the upper floors.

Plasterers-painters strongly recommend, in addition to hardware, to use adhesive solutions when installing the insulation layer. Such double fastening provides a long service life. No need to try to save money by using dubious adhesive mixtures or changing the consistency. Apply glue to the insulation not only in strips, but also in a continuous layer - it depends on the types of building material and the base. Keep in mind that the proportions for diluting glue are usually indicated on the packaging. It is also necessary to close the seams in the insulation layer. A special mounting foam is suitable for this purpose. If this is not done, then “bridges of cold” will appear, which means that the heat will “fly away”.

Good examples and options

The apartment is most often insulated with a loggia. To do this, you can use the cheapest material - polystyrene with a reflective layer of aluminum foil. A good effect is guaranteed provided that the balcony is glazed with a plastic profile and a heating infrared system is installed on the floor. By the way, the infrared version of the electric heating system does not contribute to the cracking of the laminate, and therefore it is installed in kitchens. It is important that the laminate is of a higher wear resistance class. and suitable for a heating system.

When installing a heat-insulating layer with your own hands on the 1st floor of a wooden house, it is strongly recommended that the vapor tightness of the product be considered.

Remember that the basement is the dampest place, and moisture evaporating can destroy the base. Be sure to pay attention to such a parameter as hydrophobicity.

In conclusion, I would like to note the fact that modern thermal insulation options are suitable not only for city apartments, but also for garden houses, private cottages. They vary both in cost and in size, which means that it is easy to choose a heater for both exterior and interior decoration. In the old frame house, it is necessary to insulate not only the room inside, but also outside.

Keep in mind that heavy building materials can adversely affect construction. For interior decoration, light insulation is most often used, including in the attic.

See how to insulate the floor with extruded polystyrene foam in the next video.

Why do you need to insulate the floor?

Insulation of the floor is necessary to create a favorable microclimate in the house. Carrying out such work is especially important in an apartment or house on the ground floor, because from the basement is usually very "drawn" by the cold. Many property owners believe that wooden floors retain heat well, but in fact, even such floors need additional insulation.

So why all the same it is necessary to insulate the floor? The answer to this question is quite simple. The fact is that the flooring of a country house or apartment occupies literally the entire area of ​​the apartment. If the floor is not properly insulated, cold air from below (if this is the first floor) will seriously cool the floor and, accordingly, your entire home.

The concrete base of the floor is characterized by high performance (durability and strength) Despite this, a reinforced concrete slab or leveling screed from mortar has one significant drawback - this high thermal conductivity. Due to this characteristic, concrete is considered a cold building material. Therefore, concrete floors should be insulated first.

Sometimes, a concrete floor needs to be insulated even NOT on the first floor, as from a cement screed always “blows cold”,

Laying thermal insulation is especially necessary for an apartment, which is located on the ground floor of the house. Living rooms in this case are located above a wet and damp basement, which can lead to mold on the walls. To prevent this, laying of insulation and waterproofing is necessary. With minimal experience and the necessary construction tools, any man can handle such work. Next, we describe how to make floor insulation with your own hands.

Sawdust

It is not difficult to understand that wood sawdust is considered the cheapest type of thermal insulation. Such material is obtained after processing wood on special equipment. This is a secondary product that is environmentally friendly and at a low cost. In addition, sawdust can be poured into any cracks. The floor insulated with their help will be absolutely safe for human health.

Extruded Polystyrene

And the last material polystyrene foam has high strength and resistance to moisture. Such products come to building stores in the form of plates, they are distinguished by excellent heat-insulating ability. This material is quite durable, it does not take rodents and insects.

Insulation of the floor in a wooden house

To warm the floor in a wooden house, in most cases, choose mineral wool. To conduct insulating work, you will need the following tool:

• hacksaw or SUV,
• electric drill,
• building level,
• plane,
• drills of different diameters,
• hammer,
• sharp knife
• roulette.

The whole list of works is as follows:

1. Creating a rough floor from chipboards or boards, laying waterproofing.
2. Installation of wooden blocks (log).
3. Laying the selected insulation, in our case, mineral wool.
4. Installation of flooring.

At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to remove the old coating and correct unevenness on the basis. After leveling the surface create a rough floor from the waste boards of coniferous wood. The croakers tightly fit, and then treated with an antiseptic. If you do not use the specified impregnation, then the logs and wooden board will rot after 5-7 years of operation. All elements are fastened together with screws or nails.

At the next stage of work, a metal mesh with a small mesh size is laid on the rough coating. Next, this structural element is sprinkled with a thin layer of expanded clay (about 4 centimeters) This material will not only crush the mesh, but also create the necessary ventilation gap between the insulation and the subfloor. Bottom also lay waterproofing, roofing felt or plastic film.

On the waterproofing of the rough wooden floor, bars or logs are laid. They are attached to the surface every 80-100 centimeters using nails or self-tapping screws. In the space formed between these elements, one or several rows of mineral wool are laid. The insulation is mounted with overlapping joints, so that there are no gaps between the plate and the lags. Next, the installation of waterproofing is carried out, which is attached to the base with the help of staples.

As a finish flooring, milled boards are used, which are interconnected using a groove-comb system. These elements should have the same thickness within 4 ... 5 centimeters, while their width is in the range from 10 to 13 centimeters. In the lower part of the boards make a special longitudinal recess for air circulation under the floor covering. In places of adjoining boards to the walls, a constructive gap is left within 1-1.5 centimeters. In the future, this gap will be covered by the baseboard.

Expanded clay floor insulation

Preparation for the main work consists in dismantling the old floor covering and cleaning the surface of construction debris. Typically, an unnecessary structure is removed to a solid foundation, concrete or reinforced concrete floor slab. To clean the surface from dirt and debris, metal scrapers are used, as well as a construction vacuum cleaner. After this, the pits and cracks on the base are closed using cement-sand mortar or special glue for this purpose.

Before floor insulation with expanded clay, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing work. For this, a pre-aligned surface of the floor is treated with bitumen mastic or a dense plastic film is laid on the base. The bands are overlapped with a gap of 10-15 centimeters. In the future, the docking points are glued with tape.

For applying bitumen mastic, a roller or a paint brush is used.Drying of one layer of the solution in question takes place over three hours. For reliable and high-quality waterproofing, it is necessary to apply up to three layers of material on the surface. Subsequently, a special damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room, which forms a gap after the screed dries and prevents possible deformations.

The installation technology of expanded clay screed is similar to the process of pouring concrete, so at the preparatory stage it is necessary to install beacons from metal pipes. If expanded clay will be used as a backfill material, then T-shaped metal profiles should serve as beacons. The first guide rail is installed near the wall, opposite the door, while the maximum distance between the beacons is set within one meter.

Lighthouses are fixed on the surface with a cement-sand mortar with an increased dosage of binder. Level beacons using a hydraulic or conventional building level. To adjust the height of the pipe, wooden wedges are used, which must be knocked in the right direction. The height of the rails is set so that the height of the insulation screed is not less than 8 centimeters.

The first layer of expanded clay can be laid as a screed or in a dry way (filling granules of baked clay between the beacons). When using a liquid screed, pouring should be carried out in several successive stages. First of all, it is necessary to mix expanded clay with an ordinary solution in a proportion of 1 to 5. After this, they begin to lay the first layer of the solution, it should be 2 centimeters lower from the guide rails.

Expanded clay, which is part of the concrete floor is considered a fairly light building material, so the granules must be recessed into the solution with a trowel. After some time, the expanded clay will absorb moisture and sink into the bulk. When the first layer hardens, begin to lay the leveling concrete screed.

The thickness of the final layer of the solution should be at least two centimeters. The concrete mixture is poured in between the installed beacons, and then pulled together as a rule to get a perfectly smooth surface. Depending on the thickness, the setting time of expanded clay screed can vary from one to four weeks. During this process, it is necessary to protect the surface from direct sunlight.

Note that expanded clay can also be insulated with a wooden floor along the logs. Having laid a moisture-proof film, and between the lags, he covered a layer of expanded clay. From above the floor is simply sewn up with boards.

Floor insulation in the apartment on the ground floor

In the case when the apartment on the first floor of the residential building is located above the basement, the best option for floor insulation is laying thermal insulation from the basement. In this case, one important advantage can be achieved - the floor in the apartment does not need to be opened and redone. At the same time, the level of flooring will remain at the same mark as before. Such work can be carried out even by inexperienced builders, since the base surface does not need a fine finish.

As a heat insulation material, many choose mineral wool at an affordable cost, but for laying such material special knowledge and the availability of a construction tool are necessary. That is why most property owners use foam floor insulation.

The whole process of work consists of several stages:

• They find the plan of the ground floor of the house and make the layout of the basement so that the boundaries of the insulation slightly exceed the dimensions of the apartment,
• We identify defective places on the basement ceiling. We close cracks, holes or chips on the surface with mounting foam or cement-sand mortar,
• We install a vapor barrier, a plastic film. This material is overlapped, the areas are glued using ordinary tape,
• We build a frame from a metal profile or wooden blocks of the desired thickness,
• We lay mineral wool plates, fix the plywood sheets.

Installation of foam sheets is a little different. The fact is that the insulation in question does not allow moisture to pass through, so it can be fixed on the surface of the basement walls with a special adhesive solution. For the final fixing of products, plastic dowels are used.

The second option, insulation of the flooring in the apartment is characterized by increased complexity. Before carrying out repair work, it is necessary to calculate the possibilities for maximum floor lifting. The larger this indicator is, the thicker the insulation layer can be laid. In the case when the insulation work will take place after the repair of the premises, the first step will be to remove the floor covering.

After dismantling the floor structure to the base, the master checks the surface for bumps, cracks and chips. All defective places are sealed with cement-sand mortar. Subsequently, the dried and hardened base is treated with fixing impregnation, a substance called silling. At the next stage, a waterproofing polyethylene film is fixed to the surface, the panels of which are fastened with adhesive tape.

Next, a layer of roofing material is laid on the base, a wooden beam is installed, logs are fixed. These elements must be firmly fixed in concrete. Then granules of expanded clay are filled up to the thickness of the log. The upper part of the insulation is leveled with a cement screed. Logs fall asleep not to the top, but with the expectation that a heater can be laid between the rough and finish floors.

Mineral wool boards of the required thickness, foam or foam can be used as additional thermal insulation material. In addition, a liquid insulation - penoizol is often laid in the formed gap. Next, fix the plastic film on the lags with the help of a stapler. At the final stage of the work, a rough floor is made of plywood sheets or boards. Concludes warming laying of the selected floor covering.

About the need for vapor barrier

Many do not know why vapor barrier is necessary in a floor device with insulation. The fact is that the water vapor that is released during wet cleaning or cooking tries to seep through the walls and floors of the rooms, while it negatively affects various wooden structures, for example logs. Due to the temperature difference in the neighboring rooms or inside and outside the building, the steam turns into condensate. Subsequently, water seeps into the wood structure and causes its destruction.

The walls of a wooden house, as well as the roof, are protected from moisture by an antiseptic or waterproofing impregnation, which can not be said about the elements of the floor. To protect the lag, a vapor barrier film is used, which protects not only wood from destruction, but also insulation, for example, mineral wool. In this case, vapor barrier allows the building to breathe. That is, air saturated with water will pass unhindered through thermal insulation and wood products.

Useful article? Rate and add to your bookmarks!