Plastering the ceiling is a rather complicated matter, which not every beginner will decide. Here you need to not only know the technological side of the job well, but also be able to use specific tools, and not in the most convenient position. Therefore, for beginners who are determined to plaster the ceiling in the apartment on their own, it is recommended that you first try your hand at the walls and do not forget about strict adherence to the process technology.
How to clean the surface of old plaster
Before starting any repair work, it is necessary to free the ceiling from the old plaster. This stage can be skipped only to those masters who make repairs in a new building. They can immediately begin to level its surface or putty if leveling is not required.
Some masters believe that if the plaster is still holding well, then there is no need to repel it. Other specialists insist on its removal, even if it requires considerable effort, since it has already served its purpose and after some time it will begin to collapse anyway.
- Old plaster can be beaten off with a hammer, putty knife, grinder or puncher, clean off the rest with a metal brush.
- After releasing the surface from the old coating, it is necessary to carefully examine it for defects. If there are cracks on it, then they should be embroidered and repaired.
Tip: for defects of large size, you must additionally put a special sickle tape on top of the putty layer. It is also recommended to use it for processing joints between floor slabs.
Wet leveling - plastering the ceiling
Let us consider in detail how to level the ceiling with plaster - it is this method of alignment that causes particular difficulties.
Preparatory work:
- Before starting the main work, you need to walk along the surface with a primer on concrete, which will provide good adhesion and strengthen the foundation.
- Using the level, you need to determine the lowest and highest points of the ceiling. If the detected difference is more than 5 cm, you will have to apply the plaster in several layers. In this case, it is desirable to use a reinforcing mesh that acts as a frame and is attached to the surface using conventional glue.
- Before plastering the ceiling, it is necessary to correctly mark its surface. For this, beacons (plaster profiles or wooden blocks) are used, the number of which depends on the width of the room. On average, two lighthouses are located at three meters, the extreme ones should be at a distance of 60 cm from the walls.
How to plaster the ceiling
Plastering the ceiling with your own hands involves the use of the same technology as for walls. It is necessary to apply the solution to the surface using one of the following tools:
- steel trowel - suitable for applying plaster for the ceiling with a thin layer: a small amount of the mixture is applied to the tool, and then transferred to the ceiling with quick movements with little pressure,
- spatula - used with a layer thickness of more than one and a half centimeters.
Tip: the plaster solution can not be made too thick, otherwise it will be inconvenient to apply. In addition, the plaster may fall off the surface under its own weight.
Plastering the ceiling on the beacons is carried out in a certain sequence: the middle part is processed first, and only then the side strips, it is recommended to start the process in the direction from the center to the wall.
Work must be standing with his back to the light. To remove the excess solution, you need to draw a rule towards yourself. The final movement is, on the contrary, from yourself. Thanks to this, the master will be able to see the gaps in the plaster layer and correct the identified defects, the absence of which is especially important during subsequent painting.
How to prevent the formation of bubbles
Incorrect application of the mortar is fraught with the formation of air bubbles that appear where the stucco does not adhere to the surface and as a result sag under its own weight. That is why beginners, taught by bitter experience, are interested in how to plaster the ceiling correctly.
Professional craftsmen advise applying the plaster in two layers, the first of which is made very thin. After it dries, a second coat can be applied. The secret of this approach is that two layers of the solution adhere well to each other and as a result no voids appear on the ceiling.
Tip: in order to remove the already formed bubbles, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely dried, and then with a spatula to clean it from the ceiling in places where the defect appears. Affected areas will have to be plastered again.
Preparing the ceiling for finishing
The use of one plaster for the ceiling does not allow to make its surface perfectly even - before painting it will have to be putty additionally. First, a primer must be applied to the ceiling and only then can the putty mixture be used. Then it is recommended to process well-dried surface with sandpaper or polymer grout.
The nuances of plastering a plasterboard ceiling
The surface of the drywall is not perfectly smooth: it shows the joints of individual sheets, as well as the head of the screws. Since full alignment in this case is not required, plastering the ceiling with your own hands is necessary to eliminate all minor surface defects, as well as additional GCR protection.
Processing the ceiling before wallpapering
- First of all, it is necessary to apply a layer of penetrating primer on drywall: it will make its surface more durable, reduce its absorbency, and also improve adhesion to the selected coating. In addition, much less expensive materials will have to be spent on subsequent painting.
- All joints and irregularities must be filled with gypsum plaster or special putty for joints.
- To apply a common layer, you will need a finish composition and a narrow spatula ten centimeters wide. Alignment is best done with a tool that is at least three times wider. At the corners of the ceiling, it is advisable to additionally glue a net-sickle.
- After the putty layer has dried, the joints must be treated with a special paint net and re-applied. After that, you can glue the selected wallpaper on the ceiling.
Putty before painting
If you plan to apply paint to the surface, then before plastering the ceiling from drywall, it is necessary to conduct a more thorough treatment:
- First of all, to apply a primer to the seams and various irregularities, you need to use not a roller, but a brush. It is this tool that will make it possible to carefully process any surface defects.
- In the future, it is desirable to glue not only the corners, but also the seams with a mesh.
The process of plastering or puttying itself will be as follows:
- Plaster or starting putty is applied over the mesh until a smooth surface is obtained. Also, the mixture fills all the recesses and holes from the screws.
- After the surface dries, the ceiling is primed again and bandaging is carried out: applying a paper tape to the seams and corners, which is fixed with ordinary glue. Thanks to the use of paper, it is possible to achieve an ideal surface in the most problematic places.
- Final puttying with the finishing composition is recommended to be done in several passes. To apply a thin and even layer, you need to use a fairly wide spatula.
- After that, the surface of the ceiling is polished with sandpaper, at the final stage, paint is applied to it.
Methods of leveling the ceiling
In practice, one of two technologies is used - plastering the ceiling with and without lighthouses. The first option is considered correct, since then a ceiling surface lying in one plane is obtained.
But sometimes you can meet the ceiling, which has a large difference in height. It is dangerous to apply a 5-centimeter layer of plaster on the surface, since it will most likely fall off. Even if you make several layers with the application of a primer, there is no guarantee that the finish will hold.
In the case when the ceilings have a large curvature, experts advise aligning them with the installation of suspended ceiling structures made of drywall. True, not in all rooms the height allows you to take 10 centimeters from her. In such a situation, there is no doubt whether it is necessary to plaster the ceiling using beacons.
The essence of this technology is that in a certain area the ceiling surface will become smooth. It will not have too noticeable differences, it will look even. And the fact that the distance to the flooring in different angles differs by a couple of centimeters cannot be determined “by eye”.
The main task that should be solved when applying this technology is to make the joint of the ceiling with the walls as even as possible. The resulting line should be straight. When applying this option, you need to start plastering in the direction from the walls to the center.
Materials
Before starting repairs, you need to decide what is better to plaster the ceiling. You can use a standard cement-sand mortar or add lime to it. It is better to put plaster in a small layer. Such a mixture is inexpensive, despite this, it has been used infrequently lately, since it can fall off or become covered with cracks.
Instead of the usual mortar, it is better to use polymer-based plasters, since they differ in strong adhesion and less often crack. But these compounds have a drawback - high cost. Many home craftsmen prefer modern blends, so that later they do not redo the work when the applied layer falls.
When choosing plaster for the ceiling, it does not hurt to use the recommendations of specialists:
- When plastering smooth surfaces of the ceiling and walls, the Knauf Rothband mixture, which has a white or gray color, has proven itself well. It can be applied with a layer of 5 to 50 millimeters. Polymers are added to this ceiling gypsum plaster.
- To restore old plastered surfaces, including facades, gray-colored Knauf Sevener adhesive-plaster mixture is suitable. Consists of Portland cement, reinforcing fibers and polymer additives.
- If you intend to use the compositions in rooms with a normal level of humidity, you can purchase Bergauf Bau Interier or Volma-Canvas.
In the case of insufficient experience in carrying out such work when deciding which plaster to choose for the ceiling, you should pay attention to the time it takes to solidify the closed mixture. For this period, it is necessary not only to apply the solution, but also to level it, since then it loses elasticity.
Of the above plaster compositions, Volma-Canvas, made of gypsum with biological and mineral additives, has the greatest time period for using the mixture. But not all masters like to work with this plaster, they give materials to TM Knauf, despite the fact that they freeze in 50-60 minutes. True, this is quite enough, even if there is no corresponding experience.
Primer application
There is a certain technology on how to plaster the ceiling correctly.
A high-quality result cannot be obtained without careful application of the primer. It helps to improve the adhesion between the base and the applied solution.
As a rule, problems with peeling of plaster arise due to the fact that the surface was not primed. For this reason, it is better not to skip this step. If the plaster is applied in several layers, each of them should be treated with a primer, and only if it has completely dried.
First of all, the base is cleaned of old materials, and then primed. The composition is poured into a paint tray, take a roller on a long handle and distribute the composition on the ceiling surface. If there are various defects in it in the form of recesses and recesses into which the roller does not fit, they are pre-treated with a brush dipped in the primer mixture.
According to experts, the best primer for the ceiling is Concrete Contact from Knauf. A day after its application, it dries, after which a sticky, rough film forms on the surface. Putty clings much better to such a coating.
The main thing is to ensure that the dust does not get on the primer while it dries. Otherwise, there will be no desired effect from such processing.
Sealing joints of plates
The main problem that occurs when it is necessary to plaster the ceiling of reinforced concrete slabs is the sealing of joints and rusts. Recesses in the joints of the plates must be eliminated a few days before the plastering of the entire ceiling surface, since the materials must set.
First, everything possible is removed from the docking points. Then the recesses are cleaned of dust and sand. Then the joints are treated with a primer, it is better to use "Concrete Contact". After applying it, the likelihood of delaminating the plaster is reduced several times. In extreme cases, you can use another impregnation of deep penetration, but the result is not the same.
When the impregnation dries in a day, they begin to lay the solution. If necessary, to obtain a filler thickness of more than 30 - 35 millimeters, it is advisable to apply the mixture in two layers. After laying the first of them with the help of a notched trowel, you need to form a relief. After the solution has dried, which takes about 24 hours, lay the second layer, which is aligned flush with the ceiling.
If you have to apply a thick layer of plaster, it is better to reinforce the joints of the plates with a paint net. It will prevent the appearance of cracks in the case of seasonal movements of the plates. The grid is not nailed to the ceiling, but is attached to the composition. In this case, when the first layer of plaster is applied, a polymer mesh is laid, a spatula is passed along it, deepening it into the mixture and at the same time forming a relief for the next portion of the solution.
It happens that the crack in the seam is too deep, and it is impossible to eliminate it in this way. Then it is treated with Concrete Contact.
Next, apply one of two options:
- Filling with mounting foam. Its amount should be about 1/3 of the volume of the gap, the walls of which are wetted with water for the polymerization of the foam. After a day, a primer is applied and plastered in two to three layers.
- The rags are moistened with Concrete contact and hammered into the slot. Leave for 24 hours and plastered.
To seal joints of plates on the ceiling surface, use a composition with polymer additives or high-quality tile adhesive.
Features of applying plaster for beacons
If you have the skills to prepare the surface of the walls, then to cope with the work will be easier. The fact is that the plastering of walls and ceilings has a lot in common, although there are still differences. The most difficult thing is the need to keep your hands up. They quickly get tired, like the neck, because you have to throw your head back.
Preparatory stage
Before plastering the ceiling with your own hands, its surface is cleaned from old materials to the concrete base itself. After they remove the dust using a construction vacuum cleaner. If there is no such device, then use a large brush so that there is no sand and debris.
If the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete slabs and it has large rustics, they need to be repaired.When the solution dries on them, a primer is applied to the clean base. After a day, you can continue to work.
Beacon Installation Process
The first thing they do when they perform plastering the ceiling on lighthouses is to install them. But first, determine the minimum and maximum height difference using a special laser device - level. The plane builder is placed under the ceiling and is turned on horizontally.
Then at several points measure the distance from the ceiling surface to the luminous beam. As a result, the maximum and minimum deviations are determined. The plaster is laid with a layer in which the thickness exceeds the largest deviation.
The same operation can be performed using a water level, but it will be much more complicated:
- first, at an arbitrary distance from the floor, a horizontal line is drawn on the walls around the perimeter of the room,
- one end of the level is fixed at this mark,
- with the second, they go around the room to measure the distance between the water column in the level and the ceiling, thus determining the minimum and maximum points.
After the size of the layer is determined, choose beacons - perforated
galvanized planks with backs protruding. They will become the supports for leveling the solution. The height of such a back can be 6 and 10 millimeters. You need to choose products for which this value exceeds the maximum deviation.
Lighthouses are set in increments slightly shorter than the length of the rule - a tool for leveling and cutting the solution. When its length is 1.5 meters, then the slats are placed with a gap of 1.1 - 1.3 meters. First, 20-30 centimeters retreat from the walls and install extreme lighthouses. The remaining distance is divided so that the interval between the strips is in a given parameter.
To fix the beacons, a gypsum solution is used, kneading it densely. Small handfuls of this mixture are applied along the plank line. Beacons are pressed into them, exposing their backs in the desired plane. If there is a level, the beam from it should glide over them.
When the work is done using a water level, a line of the ceiling surface is transferred to the walls and several laces are pulled so that they go along the beacons. According to this marking, the backs are exposed. After installing all the beacons, the plane is checked by the rule with a bubble level installed on it.
A few hours later, when the gypsum sets, the final stage of work begins, having previously decided how to plaster the concrete ceiling.
Plastering
For further work, stable construction goats are needed, and from tools - a spatula and a platform with a handle (falcon). The selected plaster composition is diluted in accordance with the instructions. The solution must be homogeneous, without lumps.
Putty put on the falcon and in small portions with a spatula laid on the ceiling. The solution fills the distance between the beacons. First, the bandwidth is made from 50 to 60 centimeters, while there is no need to achieve a uniform surface.
Then they take the rule, rest it on the lighthouses and move it to themselves, swaying from one to the other. As a result, a little solution remains on it. It is removed with a spatula and applied to the ceiling - to its unfilled part or to where there are pits. Then the rule is moved again.
These steps are repeated until the surface is even. Then they fill the second lane and so on. The ceiling is allowed to dry for 5 to 8 hours. When the solution has set, but still not completely dried, you need to remove the beacons, otherwise they will rust and rusty stains may appear on the surface.
After the planks, the rusts are filled with mortar and leveled with a wide spatula in one level with the ceiling plane. It takes about 5 to 7 days to completely dry the plaster.
Features
With modern possibilities of choosing building materials repair of the ceiling surface can be done in different ways:
- it can be whitened,
- to paint
- make suspended
- prepare for laying tiles
- stick wallpaper.
Any of these finishes, each of which has its pros and cons, is preceded by processes such as primer and plastering.
First, carry out preparatory work
In a newly built house or apartment with concrete ceilings, plastering begins with the preparation of the foundations. It is best to roughen the ceiling surface. To do this, carry out the notching around the entire perimeter with special tools or improvised way (using an ax).
After exposure in this way, notches remain on the ceiling surface., which in the future will allow the stucco to better fix. After priming, you can begin to surface treatment with cement mortar. It covers the ceiling part of the floor slabs.
An important factor to consider is the humidity in the room (not more than 30%).
In case of non-compliance with this parameter, as well as when applying cement plaster in a different temperature regime, the probability of its poor fixation will appear.
When it comes to an apartment or house in which they have lived for a long period of time, then proceeding to the plastering work, it is necessary to dismantle the old surface (remove layers of paint, wallpaper and other materials). This process takes longer and requires labor.
Lime can be wetted with water, and then removed with a spatula. Old water-based paint, for example, is removed with a solution of iodine and water. For 1 bucket of water, use a vial (bottle) of iodine composition. If there was a fungus on the ceiling, then you can remove it by wetting the base with a mixture of copper sulfate and water (5 grams of mixture are used per 1 liter of water).
Whitewashed ceilings and lime-coated mortars are soaked with water, then use the spatula to remove the old layers. After dismantling, the surfaces are thoroughly washed off with water, and give time to dry.
In a building with a wooden ceiling, work on plastering ceiling surfaces begins with preliminary stuffing with metal mesh or shingles (shingles) onto it. These auxiliary materials will help in the further applied layer of plaster to adhere tightly to the ceiling.
The ceiling, hemmed with plasterboard plates, must be cleaned of impurities. An important point is the lack of the need to install beacons.
A primer is applied to the dried surface at the joints of the plates (where the seams pass). Such points are handled most thoroughly.
The points where the sheets are interconnected (screws are screwed in) are tightened more tightly or use a special tape. All protruding parts are pasted over with it, then in the process of puttying, the seams and irregularities are aligned.
After the primer layer has dried, the ceiling is putty, and thus it is prepared for painting or wallpapering.
Plasterboard should be stuck if its surface is very moisture resistant.
When the sheets do not differ in such a qualitative characteristic, it is best not to carry out the plastering process.
If it is necessary to paste over the gypsum plasterboard with thin wallpaper, it is possible to pre-plaster it. This is done so that gypsum boards are not visible through the wallpaper.
How to plaster?
Before you start the process of plastering the ceiling surface with your own hands, you must choose a primer and putty.
For different types of ceilings (concrete, wood, drywall), special mixtures and compositions of solutions for processing will be required.
Solutions for plastering ceilings and walls use the following:
- gypsum
- sand and cement composition
- lime,
- a solution of silk plaster,
- a mixture of foam chips,
- decorative plaster,
- polymer mixture.
Mix selection
The modern construction industry offers a wide range of mortars and finishes for ceilings.
You can find out which one to choose for plastering in the best way, having familiarized yourself with its quality characteristics. Finishing plaster is applied with different solutions, depending on the ceiling base.
The plaster composition can be used for plastering.
Its feature is the ability to tolerate mechanical damage. The ceiling after processing with this mixture will not crack.
Acrylic polymer plaster is considered a universal mixture. It is used for any reason. It is moisture resistant and durable.
Decorative plaster is divided into textured, embossed, flock, terrazite, structural mixture.
All of them are compositions that create a three-dimensional view of ceiling surfaces:
- Structural plaster contains wood fibers.
- The relief composition contains synthetic fibers and particles of marble dust.
- The textured solution consists of various additives and may have different compositions.
- Terrazite mixture is made on the basis of cement. Marble chips, mica and glass were added to it.
- Flocks are acrylic flakes of different sizes and colors. In combination with each other, they are an extraordinary color scheme. After applying such plaster, varnish is used as a finish.
Cement compositions include sand and lime additions. They are not considered particularly durable, because over time, damage from mechanical stress is possible. Cracks in the ceiling also occur.
Among the new mixtures often used recently, a special place is given to the new composition. The sand in the cement mortar is replaced by polystyrene chips. The solution for plastering is considered an insulating mixture. It also includes components such as pumice powder, polystyrene granules, perlite sand.
Foam crumb is non-toxic, absorbs sounds well and has high thermal insulation. The material is fireproof and can withstand high minus and plus temperatures.
The ceiling is very well leveled with a solution filled with polystyrene foam.
Silk plaster consists of silk fibers. Also its composition includes cellulose, glue and a number of additives that make the composition durable. These components make the putty porous, increasing sound insulation. Its qualities help maintain heat that can escape through the cold ceiling.
The mixture must be diluted with water, the result is a creamy composition. Namely, due to its density, when applied to the ceiling and walls, a layer is formed that allows you to reliably hide defects and depressions. The result lives up to expectations. The surface is solid, without seams and joints. It is good to cover concrete substrates with such plaster; after application, completely even and smooth ceilings are obtained.
Tools for work
Speaking about tools and devices for work, it should be noted that puttying is carried out using metal spatulas (different in width), brushes, and roller.
You will need a stucco mixture, a container of water, a trowel, a drill with a nozzle or a mixer, a grinding grater, glue.
It is advisable to use a protective mask and glasses to exclude the possibility of contact with the eyes and respiratory tract of layers of old materials to be dismantled. For drywall, a primer and putty will be needed.
How to install beacons?
To properly make the ceiling surface perfectly smooth and beautiful after plastering, auxiliary materials are installed called lighthouses (beacons). The process of working with ceiling bases is laborious. Each centimeter of thickness is applied with an additional layer of solution. Using beacons, this process can be reduced to a minimum.
They are attached to the ceiling base so that the tops of these materials form a common, very flat plane. Beacons are made using different materials. It can be wooden slats, metal profiles in the form of the letter "T", strips of plaster.
The most time-consuming of the three methods is to create stucco beacons.
Make strips on the ceiling, acting as guides. On them then the entire base of the ceiling is leveled.
The manufacture of strips takes a rather long period of time, however, the advantage of the work is that at the end of the work there is no need to remove such materials from the ceiling and close up the places where they were attached.
A plus is the ability to make beacons of any height, since plaster is taken as a raw material for their manufacture.
T-shaped metal profiles are often used for applying plaster on a ceiling base up to 1 cm thick. If it is necessary to create a thicker layer, the solution is placed under the beacons, allowing in this way to achieve the required height. It is easy to work with such profiles, however, when applying a thick layer to the ceiling, the process of putting beacons at the same height takes a lot of time.
Wooden slats can also align the ceiling. But the tree absorbs moisture in large volumes, so before working it is best to hold the slats in water so that after drying they do not change their size and thickness.
Convenient is their ease of mounting and use.
Any type of lighthouse selected for ceiling installation in a bathroom, kitchen or living room is preceded by a marking process. The methods for installing beacons for the ceiling and walls are similar.
Step-by-step installation instructions for beacons
First you need to check the ceiling surface with a level or chopping thread. Determine the lowest point on the ceiling and mark (using a masking cord). From this point begin the installation of beacons.
Using a masking tape mark the ceiling on the line. Next, the level (including laser) check the angles between the lines so that they are strictly 90 degrees. After that, rails (beacons) are fastened to the guide lines using screws.
The distance between the rows of rails should be no more than 20 cm. The screws are set according to the level so that after work the ceiling base can cover all defects and problem areas (protrusions, depressions). Where there was the lowest point of the ceiling surface, the lighthouse is raised to the maximum height, thereby equalizing it with other lighthouses around the perimeter. As a rule, it is better to use a steel rail from 60 cm to 1 m 40 cm long. When plastering, it will move along beacons throughout the entire area of the ceiling.
Preparation for further work on this ends. Those who wish can watch the video.
With or without lighthouses
There are two technologies for plastering the ceiling - with and without lighthouses. That's right - do with lighthouses. Then the surface of the ceiling is obtained in one plane. However, there are ceilings with a very large difference in height. Putting a 5 cm thick layer of plaster on the ceiling is dangerous: it may fall. Even if you make several layers with a primer after each, there is still no guarantee that such a large layer will hold.
Incorrectly applied plaster may collapse. 
In general, with a large curvature of the ceilings, it is recommended to align them with suspended plasterboard ceilings, but not all rooms allow you to "steal" about 10 cm in height. Here in this case, you can do it wrong - plaster the ceiling without lighthouses.
The whole idea is to make the ceiling smooth in a certain area. It will not have noticeable differences, visually it will look like even. And the fact that at different angles the distance to the floor will differ by several centimeters cannot be determined “by eye”. With this technology, the main task is to make the joint of the ceiling and walls even. This line is very clearly tracked and should be straight. If you choose this technology of plastering the ceiling, you need to start plastering from the walls, to the center.
The better to plaster
For plastering the ceiling, you can use ordinary cement-sand mortar, or the same, but with the addition of lime. But it is advisable to apply a small layer. Although this mixture is the cheapest, in recent years it has been used infrequently - it may fall or crack.
Plaster based on polymers that have better adhesion took the place of the usual mortar, less often gives cracks. Their disadvantage is the high price. But to remodel the ceiling after the applied layer falls, it will not be cheaper. Therefore, they prefer to immediately make the plaster of the stream from modern mixtures. Some types of similar materials recommended for ceilings are given in the table.
If the experience of plastering is small, when choosing a composition, pay attention to the time before the solidified mortar hardens. During this period, it is necessary to apply and smooth the entire solution, because then it begins to harden, loses elasticity. Of the plasters listed in the table, Volma has the longest life span. But not everyone likes to work with her, many say that it is easier with Knauf, although they have a shorter set time of 50-60 minutes, but it is more than enough even in the absence of experience.
Primer, why is it necessary and which is better
Normal ceiling plaster without a thorough primer you will not succeed. It improves the adhesion (adhesion) of the stucco mixture to the base. Basically, all the problems with the falling and peeling finish on the ceiling due to the fact that the base was not primed. Therefore, we do not miss this stage. Moreover, if there are several layers of plaster, it is advisable to treat each of them with a primer (with complete drying).
First, prepare the base - clean from old coatings, and then process with a primer. To do this, pour the composition into the paint tray, take a roller on the length of the handle (telescopic rod) and distribute the composition on the ceiling. If there are any recesses - recesses, defects on the surface of the ceiling, into which the roller simply does not fit, they are pre-treated with a brush dipped in a primer.
Primer for ceiling before plastering 
Now about which primer for the ceiling is better. According to the masters, this is "Concrete Contact" of the Knauf company. After drying (24 hours), a rough, sticky film remains on the surface. Putty perfectly "clings" to it. Only one point: it is necessary to ensure that while the primer dries, dust does not fall on it. Otherwise, the effect of such processing will not be. It can only get worse.
How to close up joints of plates and rusty
When plastering a concrete ceiling made of reinforced concrete slabs, the main problem is the sealing of joints and rusts - recesses at the joints. They are closed up a few days before the general plastering of the ceiling begins - it is necessary that all materials are "grasped".
First, everything that turns out is removed from the joints. Then, with a brush, everything is cleaned of dust, sand. Prepared joints are coated with a primer. Most often recommend "Concrete Contact". Such processing significantly reduces the possibility of delamination of the applied plaster layer. If this option is not suitable for any reason, you can use any impregnation of deep penetration, but the effect will not be the same.
Such seams on the ceiling are not uncommon 
After drying the impregnation (24 hours from the time of application), a solution is applied. If a layer of more than 30-35 mm is required, it is better to apply it in two layers. Having laid the first, a relief is formed on it with a notched trowel. After a day, when the solution dries up, a second layer is applied. It is already flush with the ceiling.
With a large layer of plaster, the joints of the plates are sometimes reinforced with a layer of the paint stack. It is needed in order to prevent cracks in the seam during seasonal movements of the plates. It is unlikely that someone will nail the net to the ceiling, it is usually simply fixed to the composition. In this case, after applying the first layer of plaster, a strip of polymer stucco mesh is laid, a gear spatula is drawn along it, deepening it into the solution and, at the same time, forming a relief for applying the second layer.
When applying plaster in two layers on the first form a relief 
Sometimes a rust (crack in the seam) is very deep and it is not possible to seal it with a solution. It is also preliminarily cleaned of crumbling parts and sand, treated with “Concrete contact”. After there are two options:
- Close up with foam. We put it a little, about 1/3 of the volume of the gap, after wetting the walls abundantly with water (needed for normal foam polymerization). We leave it for a day, after which we cut the foam so that the plasters fit into the seam for at least 1 cm. After that, we ground and apply the plaster in two (maybe three) layers.
It is inconvenient to hold the spray can with foam near the ceiling, you can put a piece of hose on the “nose”
- Take a rag, moisten it with Concrete contact, hammer it into the slot. Leave on the ducks, and then plaster.
The question may still arise than how to seal the joints of plates on the ceiling. Usually use one of the compositions with polymer additives, and you can also use a good tile adhesive. It also contains a considerable amount of polymers. They say that after such a seal, the joints do not crack.
Beacon Installation
The first stage of ceiling plastering is the installation of beacons, but first you need to determine the maximum and minimum height difference. It is more convenient to do this using a laser plane builder. It is installed under the ceiling, included in the horizontal scan. Measure in a number of points measure the distance from the ceiling to the luminous beam. In this way, find the maximum and minimum deviation. The thickness of the plaster layer should be slightly larger than the most significant deviation.
The same operation can be done with the water level, but it will be much more difficult. First you need to put a horizontal along the perimeter of the walls at some arbitrary distance from the floor. We fix one end of the level at this mark. With the second we go around the room, measuring the distance from the water column in the level - to the ceiling. So calculate the same maximum and minimum points.
Having decided on the thickness of the layer, select the beacons. These are galvanized perforated planks with a protruding back. These backs will be support when leveling the solution. The height of the back of the lighthouse can be 6 mm and 10 mm. We select the one that is slightly larger than the maximum deviation found.
Ceiling beacons 
Lighthouses are set in steps, slightly less than the length of the rule - a tool that aligns and cuts off the solution. With a rule length of 1.5 meters, beacons are placed at a distance of 1.1-1.3 m. It is difficult to work longer with unaccustomed habits, shorter - not worth it - too many seams. First, extreme lighthouses are placed, stepping back from the walls 20-30 cm. The remaining distance is divided so that the distance between the lighthouses is within the given limits.
They attach the beacons to the gypsum mortar, knead it densely. Along the line of installation of the lighthouse (can be traced on the ceiling), islands of this solution are applied. The strips of the lighthouses are pressed into it, exposing their backs in one given plane. If there is a plane builder (level), everything is simple - put it on it - the beam should slide along the back.
If we work with a water level, we transfer the required “finishing” ceiling level to the walls, we stretch several cords so that they are directed along the lighthouse. On these cords and insert the backs of the slats. Having set all the beacons, check the plane with the rule with the bubble level installed on it.
The distance between the lighthouses on the ceiling is 1.1-1.3 meters 
After the gypsum has set (it should take several hours), you can begin to plaster the ceiling.
Pros and Cons of Plaster
Before deciding which one is better: plaster or stretch ceiling, it is worth considering the advantages of each of the options for a particular room.
The use of wet alignment is appropriate provided that the height difference is not more than 50 mm. Since the plaster mix has a significant specific gravity, tearing off falling pieces of a heavy plaster finish can be dangerous. Therefore, if the height difference of the ceiling surface is large, resort to dry alignment.
If construction flaws are insignificant, the surface is almost flat, there are only small cracks and crevices, the ceiling surface is putty, applying a layer of 3-4 mm. In intermediate cases, alignment is done by plastering.
- strength,
- monolithic coating
- environmental friendliness
- washability
- no frame required
- long operation
- maintainability
- do it yourself is cheaper than a stretch ceiling,
- the decrease in the height of the room is insignificant.
- limited coating thickness,
- some work skills are required,
- It can be expensive if you involve plasterers.
The question of what to choose - plaster or stretch ceiling, has been decided in favor of plastering. Consider the following question.
How to plaster ceilings correctly, the choice of mixture
The right choice of stucco is especially important for plastering the ceiling.
The main things that should be provided:
- strong adhesion of the coating to the ceiling surface,
- the solution should not create difficulties during application (be too sticky or fall off the base),
- the quality of the mixture must be maintained until the beginning of hardening (delamination is not allowed, the beginning of setting earlier than the guaranteed lifetime).
You also have to choose between the finished mixture and the composition of your own manufacture. In the finished mixtures (minerals are usually sold in powder form), the composition of the components, which includes all the necessary additives, fillers and binders, is carefully selected. Own-made compositions are many times cheaper. With them more trouble, but subject to the basic rules, such compositions are not inferior to purchased.
The size of the fractions can tell what kind of SS (dry mix) the seller offers - putty (fractions less than 0.3 mm) or plaster (up to 2.5 mm).
When deciding which mixture to choose, you need to remember the climate of the plastered room. For wet rooms, simple gypsum compounds are not suitable. For a country house, in which they live only in the summer, it is more correct to choose compositions for facades.
Cement based
These mixtures are characterized by low cost, high strength, versatility, water resistance, and durability. Universal, frost-resistant. These are the pluses. Of the minuses - instability to vibration loads, a long time of curing, the hardening solution is easily covered with cracks if the rules for preparing the mixture and hardening are violated.
The main type of cement used as a binder is Portland cement. Other types are also used. Lime is often added to cement mortar to increase ductility. There are also cement-polymer mixtures. In decorative compositions, white Portland cement may be the binder.
The specific gravity of the solution is higher than that of the gypsum mixture. The maximum thickness of the applied layer is less than that allowed for gypsum. It lays well on a concrete base.
Gypsum based
Probably the most favorite type for plasterers. Gypsum sets very quickly, gaining strength. Of the pluses, light weight of gypsum plaster, ductility, naturalness, versatility (suitable for most base materials), shrinkage, good vapor permeability, low heat conductivity, maintainability are noted.
Of the shortcomings, the main one is fear of water, quick setting, low frost resistance.
As an astringent it goes well with lime. There are also gypsum polymer mixtures.
Clay based
The material is cheap, natural (you can scoop almost under your feet). Time-tested. Waste-free (dried clay is easy to soak and reuse). Creates a comfortable microclimate in the room. The best choice for wood ceiling finishes. Absolutely harmless. Clay plaster can be applied even by hand. Together with sawdust or straw, it creates warm walls.
Cons: it dries for a long time, which is why high humidity is kept in the room, the permissible minimum layer is 10 mm, it soaks when it is plentifully moistened for a long time.
Modern compositions
Polymer solutions, although expensive, are strong, durable, flexible. Their adhesion is higher. Adhere to almost all types of substrates. Easy to fit, quickly gain strength, not afraid of vibration and shrinkage of the building. Not afraid of moisture, resistant to aggressive substances.
These include:
They are usually applied with a layer of up to 3 mm, therefore they are suitable only for smooth surfaces.
Tools and materials
Need devices, scaffolds and tools:
- building trowel,
- a set of spatulas, preferably with rubberized handles (steel, rubber, plastic in different sizes),
- rule or rake with a level
- trowel,
- grater,
- paint brush
- cord,
- mixer or mortar mixer,
- roller
- containers of square or rectangular cross-section for the solution (large volume 15-20l),
- serpyanka,
- sandpaper
- gloves, mask or goggles, possibly a respirator, overalls.
We move on to the next question, no less important for a beginner.
How to remove plaster from the ceiling
Just note that if the old plaster adheres well, has not lost its strength, there is no need to remove it.
Remove fully or partially old coating if it:
- crumbles
- all covered with cracks
- “Blooms” (moldy)
- does not hold well (it turns out when tapping on a dull sound) and can fall off.
First of all, they take out furniture, cover it with film or other materials, and de-energize the room. After tapping with a hammer the entire area. Part of the old coating will fall off as a result. Next, work is carried out in accordance with the intended plan.
Standard manual
Use a spatula or chisel, hatchet, hammer. The edge of the coating is pushed with a spatula, then, acting as a lever with a spatula, a piece of plaster is chipped. Sometimes a hammer is tapped on the handle of the tool to drive the trowel deeper under the old coating.
The gypsum finish is removed after wetting with warm water (use a brush, cloth, roller). Give time to soak, then scrape off with a spatula or scraper.
Finishing done on drywall cannot be tapped. Choose a place on the side, carefully pick out the finishing area to drywall. Then, applying a cycle, they act similarly to techniques with a spatula, trying not to damage the cardboard.
The coating that holds firmly is removed with a chisel and hammer.
Mechanical approach
How to remove the old plaster, firmly held on the floor slab? It is removed with a puncher, instead of which you can use a drill with a nozzle for chiselling. A grinder is also used (ground to the ground).
Using a grinder, a layer of plaster is cut into squares, and then successively chopped off with a chisel and hammer. The work is hard, dusty. Need stable support and protective equipment.
How to plaster the ceiling
So that cracks do not appear on the plastered surface, stains of different origin, there are no falling off areas, plastering must be done correctly.
The thickness of the plaster layer is chosen in accordance with the type of composition, the base material, the degree of curvature of the ceiling surface.
So the minimum and maximum layer thickness for various mixtures is:
- for cement mix - 10-50 mm,
- for gypsum - 15-25 mm,
- for gypsum-sand mortar - 10-25 (with a reinforcing mesh up to 35 mm),
- for clay-sand - 10-35 mm,
- for clay-cement-sand - 15-35 mm,
- for a decorative solution - 10 (they do not recommend less to last longer).
Depending on the base material:
- flat concrete - 2 mm (with differences - 20 mm, a large thickness is made only with reinforcement),
- brick - 5 mm (for leveling - 20-25, with reinforcement up to 50 mm),
- aerated concrete - 2 mm (uneven - 8-15 mm),
- insulation with the use of serpyanka - two layers in the amount of 25-35 mm (under the serpyanka 15 mm, over 10-20 mm),
- wood (two layers), the top layer is 15-20 mm,
- drywall - 1.5-10 mm.
Surface preparation
Old wallpaper, paint, screws, nails and other metal parts are removed. You also need to remove the whitewash, the old plaster coating. The surface is cleaned of dust.
A novice will find it useful to know how to repair cracks in the ceiling, seams and other defects. Cracks and seams are stitched, clean sand and dust with a wire brush. After removing dirt, apply a deep penetration primer with a brush. After waiting 24 hours, a layer of cement mortar is applied, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded. The solution is again applied over the mesh with a notched trowel, allowed to dry completely, a second layer is applied.
Traces of rust, mold, fungus are removed by wetting the sponge. Then treated with special compounds. cement mortar
Plaster preparation
The composition is prepared immediately before plastering. Ready mixes are mixed before work, if necessary, water is added, not exceeding the volumes indicated on the package. Dry mixtures are poured into a container with poured water (volume specified by the manufacturer). Mixing is carried out with a mixer until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
The solution is covered, allowed to stand for 20 minutes, mixed repeatedly. For mechanized plastering the ceiling, the mixture is poured into a special compartment. The preparation of the mixture takes place automatically.
Surface plastering
There are several technologies by which the plastering of the ceiling is performed. The mixture is applied by coating or spreading. Pour the solution with a trowel. If plastering is performed without beacons, then the composition is applied with a spatula, smearing the mass on the surface. Having applied the first layer in this way, it is dried. Then a second layer is applied. When the applied solution sets, the ceiling surface is washed off. Do this with a wet sponge, making circular movements without pressing.
Finish layer
The ceiling for painting should be not just smooth, but smooth. Visible pores that appear after staining are not allowed. If you perform plastering of the ceiling with your own hands for painting, then the plastered surface is covered with a thin (up to 3 mm) layer of nakryvki or finish mixture. It is more plastic, and its consistency is thinner.
Apply it with a trowel or putty knife, holding the tool at an angle. They wait until the coating hardens a little, level, leading it with a grater, removing excess from the tool. This operation is called ceiling grouting. On convex places the tool is slightly pressed. First, they perform movements in a circular, and at the next stage - in a straight line, without pressing. After grouting, the plaster of the ceiling for painting is dried and sanded with sandpaper.
Step-by-step instructions for plastering the ceiling with illustrations
- The first stage: we prepare the room, remove the layer of old plaster, clean the surface, repair
- We remove the furniture from the room, cover the floor with a film.
- The room is de-energized.
- We remove the old finish (wallpaper, paint, whitewash).
- We remove metal objects (screws, nails). We isolate the remaining ones with oil paint so that as a result of contact with the solution they do not rust.
- Wash off mold, efflorescence, rust with a wet sponge.
- We process stains with special tools.
- If there is an old plaster coating, remove, do not forget to put on glasses, a respirator to protect the eyes, respiratory organs. There are several ways to remove a coating (see above).
- We clean the surface of dust.
- We repair cracks, seal joints and holes in the floor slabs with cement mortar. We embroider wide seams, cracks, clean from dust, priming with a brush, fill with foam or rags with a solution. We plaster with a solution with a reinforcing mesh (serpianka does not fit).
- Dry, wait until the cement mortar dries.
The quality of the preparatory work depends on how firmly the stucco coating will hold, as well as the appearance of the entire room (will there be cracks and appear on the surface of the spot.
- Second stage: before plastering the ceiling, primer the surface
- We prepare the primer, following the manufacturer's instructions.
- Gathering the primer on the roller, transfer it to the primed surface, distributing it evenly with rectilinear movements in one direction, leaving no gaps. Where it is difficult to process with a roller, use a brush. We expect complete drying of the applied primer.
- We apply the second layer, leading the roller in the direction perpendicular to the previous application. Give the primer time to dry.
Surface priming not only increases the adhesion of the plaster finish to the floor, but also strengthens the base itself. Affects the duration of trouble-free operation, solidity, durability of the finish.
- Third stage: install the beacons
From this operation depends how smooth the ceiling surface and the appearance of the entire room will be. In addition, it determines the consumption of plaster materials.
- In order to smoothly plaster the ceiling of the room, we define the “plane of the ceiling horizon”, create landmarks of the coating surface - beacons (see above). We get metal or wooden profiles.
- We attach a laser level gauge to the wall at the lowest ceiling angle. On it we will orient the top of the lighthouse bars.
- Using a tape measure and a plane illuminated by a laser, we find the lowest point of the ceiling. You can also determine this point using a cord. We mark the point with a pencil. It will be crucial for the placement of beacons in height. The minimum profile height of the lighthouse is 3 mm, the total coating thickness is 6 mm. So the top of the strips should be below the point by 6 mm.
- We draw with a pencil on the surface of the lighthouse fastening line. We select the distance between them so that it does not exceed the length of the rule minus 20 cm.
- To fix the plank along the line we make marks - plaster mortars. We apply a profile to the marks, recessing it so that the apex exactly coincides with the “horizon plane”. The excess solution protruding above the profile is removed with a spatula. We give the solution time to get stronger by installing the lighthouse on the next line.
- If the thickness of the future coating exceeds 2 cm, install a reinforcing mesh.
- Fourth stage: preparing the mortar from the SS for plastering
- Pour into a square container designed for the solution, water in an amount slightly less than indicated on the package.
- Pour the whole mixture, which is available in the package.
- Having immersed in the mixture the end of the mixer nozzle, turn on the mixer. Mix the contents of the container until the mass becomes homogeneous. If the dough turns out a little thick, dilute with water to the desired consistency. At the same stage, we add color if a color solution is needed.
- Cover with a film or a lid mixed solution. Leave to "insist" 20 minutes. Then mix again.
- Fifth stage: plastering the surface.
- We begin to apply the stucco mortar between the two beacons (the first and second from the edge, and not between the corner and the first beacon). Fill with a solution
- As professionals recommend to beginners, when applying plaster to the ceiling, first we apply a contact thin layer and immediately on top of it - the bulk of the solution already emerging over the lighthouse strip. The use of a contact layer reduces the amount of waste (falling from the surface of the solution).
- Rule pressed to the beacons, moving towards yourself, stretch the solution. The excess mass removed by the rule is collected from it with a spatula and sent to where the solution is not enough. The rule is carried out several times until the entire surface is leveled.
- We continue the plastering of the ceiling along the lighthouses in a similar way, until it is possible to plaster the entire surface. To level the solution between the extreme lighthouse and the wall, the rule rests on two nearby lighthouses.
- Wet the sponge with water, moisten the surface of the seized solution (we carry out the sponge without pressing).
- Gloss with a wide spatula surface.
- We put the beacons on with a spatula, remove the strips from the solution.
- We fill the grooves with a solution, leveling with a wide spatula. Also wet and gloss. Plastering on e is completed.
Is mechanized ceiling plastering possible
Facilitate the plastering of ceilings using mechanization. For mechanized plastering of the ceiling and walls, special ready-made mixtures are used, since ordinary harden too quickly, are not plastic enough and are prone to sticking to the walls of the tanks, clogging the nozzle. Machine plastering is done in one run. After applying the mixture, alignment is done manually.
Relatively flat ceilings
Relatively even ceilings are plastered in several layers (in two, sometimes three). In this case, one of the layers can be partial (plaster selective plastering), the second - necessarily full. If the layer thickness is more than 1 cm, reinforcement is used. The mesh is fixed to the surface with tension before plastering. It should be inside the plaster layer.
Ceilings with large irregularities
If the ceiling surface with large irregularities (more than 2 cm), perform the ceiling plastering on the beacons. The composition is applied with a spatula (using a medium-width tool) so that the mixture protrudes above the beacons. Moving the rule in a zigzag pattern, level the mixture. Surpluses are removed from the rule and poured into areas that need to be replenished. The rule is moving towards itself.
Wooden ceilings
To plaster a wooden ceiling, you need to prepare in advance. Two layers of shreds are stuffed on the ceiling or a metal mesh with cells of 10x10 cm is fixed. Without this, the plaster layer will crack and weakly adhere to the wood.
Each of the two applied layers is dried. The first is imposed so that it slightly rises above the shingle. Layers are smoothed with a spatula.
How to plaster a drywall ceiling with your own hands
Drywall itself is a finishing finishing material. However, joints, hats of nails may appear after painting or sticker wallpaper. The plasterboard ceiling is leveled by applying seam cover with seams. The thickness of the layer is made no more than 15 mm.
Ceiling insulation plaster
Sometimes sheets of insulation (usually expanded polystyrene) are attached to the ceiling surface for insulation. Then plastering on the insulation is performed in two stages. First, the surface of the insulation is primed. Then, on a dried primer, a layer of a more liquid mixture is applied, onto which a paint net is applied, slightly pressing it into the layer. Mesh sheets overlap. After the first layer has dried, the surface is primed again and, after the soil has dried, a second layer of a more viscous solution is applied. With this layer they work as usual.
The use of decorative plaster
Ceiling with decorative stucco is difficult due to the inconvenience of the situation, but not the technique. The techniques used are the same as for decorative plastering of walls. Beginners should practice on the walls. But if there is successful experience, why not try to do the same with the ceiling?
Start from any corner of the room, plastering a strip along the wall. To prevent the solution from flying off, immediately spread it on the ceiling. Apply the pattern in the selected way. After plastering, the finish is dried. If the decorative composition is not tinted, then the next step will be grinding, then painting the ceiling (you can also perform waxing).
Manufacturers and Consumption
As a rule, it is difficult for a beginner to orientate correctly, than to plaster, which plaster is better. Therefore, it is easier to rely on the advice of professional plasterers, as well as the reputation deserved by popular brands. For example, mixes of the companies Ceresit, Knauf, Volma, Bolars, Prospectors, Plitonit are noteworthy.
So that the plastering work does not have to be interrupted due to a lack of building materials, the approximate amount of the required leveling plaster and putty for the ceiling is calculated in advance. The consumption of plaster is calculated by a simple formula, multiplying the area of its ceiling by the average thickness of the coating. The average thickness value is obtained by summing the measurements at several points along the beacons and dividing the sum by the number of measured points.
The resulting number is increased (in reserve) by 20%. This is for beginners. Pros increase by 5%. Divide the volume of the mixture you need by 100, you get the number of conditional squares (10 mm thick layer). Further, focusing on the manufacturers' data, they calculate the number of packs of the mixture that you need to purchase to level the ceiling with plaster yourself. For mechanized plastering of the ceiling, the consumption is slightly less. Our online leveling calculator calculator will help you in your calculations.
Mistakes allowed in the work
A particularly common mistake is non-compliance with ceiling plaster technology. The result may be the appearance of shrinkage cracks, swelling, falling pieces of the coating, low strength. If the plaster has fallen off, the cause may be due to poor adhesion or poorly sealed joints and cracks.
Stains on colored plaster may appear as a result of interruptions or the acquisition of compositions from different batches. Shrinkage cracks can occur due to drafts during drying or too hot weather.
Coating repair and maintenance
Plaster care is easy. The surface of many modern compounds can be washed with a damp cloth, sponge or a soft brush. If somewhere locally the plaster is damaged, then it can be repaired with an appropriate composition. Before repair, the site is dusted and primed. After which the mixture is applied with a spatula, leveled.
This article answers a number of questions that a novice has at the beginning of repair work. To answer the main one - “how to plaster the ceiling?” impossible, without giving an answer to more specific questions, for example, "which ceiling is better, stretch, drywall or plaster?", "which is better from plaster mixes - gypsum or cement?" and others. We hope that after reading the article, you have learned all the most important things about how to plaster the ceiling. Missing information, for example, on coloring, can be found on other pages of the site.
Applying and leveling plaster on the ceiling
At this stage, stable construction goats with a large area between them will be required to operate. Of the tools - a small spatula and a building falcon - a platform with a handle.
Dilute the selected plaster mixture strictly according to the instructions. The solution should be homogeneous, without lumps. A solution is applied to the falcon from the tank, then it is laid in portions on the ceiling with a small spatula. It is probably more convenient to send the solution with a sharp movement of the brush, but you can simply “grease” the solution to the ceiling. Here, everyone chooses his own method.
We fill the space between the beacons with a solution 
The distance from one lighthouse to another is filled with plaster. The width of this strip for a start is 50-60 cm. When laying, do not achieve a uniform surface. It is filled with chaotic brush strokes.
We take the rule, rest it on the lighthouses, move it towards us, swinging from side to side. With this movement, a certain amount of solution remains on the bar.
We take the rule, we begin to level 
We remove it with a small spatula and send it to the ceiling - to the unfilled part or where the pits are found. Having filled the holes, we again draw the rule. These are the basic techniques for plastering the ceiling, we repeat them until the site becomes flat.
Stretch several times, filling the pits 
So, gradually, one strip is filled, then the second, and so - the whole ceiling. We leave it to dry for 5-8 hours.
Removing lighthouses and closing down rusts
When the solution has set, but not yet dried, the beacons are taken out. If you leave them, the metal will begin to rust, rusty stains may appear on the ceiling.
After removing the lighthouses, rusts remain, they are closed up with a solution 
The rusts left after the lighthouses are filled with the same solution, they are leveled at the same level with the plane of the ceiling using a wide spatula. It makes no sense to use melted - it is too long. After this, it can be considered that the ceiling plastering is done with your own hands. It remains to wait for it to dry completely. It will take from 5 to 7 days - depending on the composition.
